POOH BEAR REPORT - December 2000 The French Canals - Part 1 Starting: Chalon-sur-Saone, France, 5 August 2000 Ending: Montceau-les-Mines, France, 7 August 2000 =============================================================Into the True French Canals The last Pooh Bear Cruising Report told of our trip in France, from our arrival in Le Grau-du-Roi on the Mediterranean Sea on 3 July, then traveling up the feeder canals to the Rhone River, our bucking the current up the Rhone past Lyon and the Saone river to Chalon-sur-Saone. Now we pick up with Pooh Bear traveling north through the French Canals via Paris and the Seine River to Calais and on to London, England. It was already the 5th of August when we left Chalon-sur-Saone and entered the Canal de Centre. A bit of History We were at least two or three weeks later than planned and since ALL of France takes vacation in August we expected hordes of hire boats. Somehow, they didn't materialize and we would often go for hours without encountering any traffic. As Pooh Bear motored at a sedate five knots through rural France, I wondered how we could have all of this peace to ourselves. Surely, this beautiful scene wasn't just for me. Indeed, it wasn't! Commerce was the key. The need to transport goods cheaply and more quickly than was possible with the horse and wagon spurred canals to be dug throughout much of western Europe starting in the late 1500s and continuing into the 1800s. The natural rivers did not serve well as they were often shallow part of the year and a raging torrent other parts of the year. And they always flowed only one direction, so going upstream was a problem. France, in particular, dug a maze of canals through the central part of the nation connecting thousands of villages with the sea. And virtually every canal had to go over the hills and down into the valleys and across the rivers. This required an early development of some very sophisticated locks as early as the 1600s. Rogny is a prime example. Now bypassed by more modern locks, it had seven contiguous stair step locks for a total drop of over 100 feet. The canal system flourished and was continually upgraded until the late 1800s when rail transport became the preferred means of transporting goods to market. As canal traffic fell, many of the canals were abandoned in the early 1900s. But through much of France there has been enough commercial traffic, and since World War II pleasure boat traffic has increased steadily, to justify maintaining, operating and even modernizing the canals. The Route The utilitarian portion of the waterways, the Rhone and the Saone, both great rivers, now navigable by ocean going ships as result of building dozens of huge locks, took us north to Chalon-sur-Saone. Here we entered the Canal du Centre and started the picturesque portion of our French cruise. Pooh Bear's draft (now 5'5" due to the overload we carry) limited us to only the deepest canals. Unfortunately, some of the most picturesque canals are the smaller ones with a depth of only 1.5 meters (5') or less. But fortunately, the Canal du Centre, a string of Class 1 canals (supposedly at least 1.8 meters (6') deep with all locks 38.5 x 5 meters (118' x 16') connected the Saone River with the Seine south of Paris. Then. turning left and following the Seine northwest past Paris, we could have gone directly to the English Channel at Le Havre. But we strongly favored canal over river travel and planned, north of Paris, to turn right at Conflans and follow a labyrinth of canals north to reach the English Channel at Calais or Dunkerque. This route had the added spice of two tunnels. Thus, we anticipated a wonderful northern half of the path from the Mediterranean Sea to the English Channel. We were not disappointed. We left the Saone river at Chalon-sur-Saone and entered our first "true" French Canal, the Canal du Centre. I should explain that the French seem to duplicate a lot village and town names, so must often identify the location more completely. Chalon-sur-Saone means Chalon on the Saone (river) as opposed to one of the three other Chalons. I should also explain that while the canal from Chalon to the Seine is generally referred to as the Canal du Centre, it really is four individual canals linked together. The southern part is the Canal du Centre, then the Canal Lateral a la Loire (parallels the Loire river), the Canal du Briare, and the most northern portion that ends at the Seine river, Canal du Loing. They each were built at different times (the Briare having been started in the 1600s) and each have quite a different character. The Canals are sure not the Sea The first day, in addition to the locks, the canals required a steep learning curve. Pooh Bear handled much differently that she had in open waters and even the rivers. We found we should limit the engine speed to about 1600 or 1700 rpm. The speedometer then showed around 5 knots (several tenths slower that we had expected). Why such a sedate speed? Well, first off, there is a speed limit and every boat we encountered ran less than 6 knot. And, in Pooh's case, with the bottom only a few inches under the keel and the banks only about 15 feet on either side, we didn't want our quarter wave to damage the bank. Even then, the water level ahead would drop many inches, surge up astern. This effect became even more marked in narrow sections with a roaring breaking wave a foot high developing astern. We also found that if the speed dropped a few tenths of a knot, it was a warning the water was shoaling (though still not aground). We also found that Pooh would not steer well at higher speeds, sheering right and left with no movement of the tiller. We hand steered all through the canals as the autopilot was too slow to react in the confined space. Even hand steering, we fought the tiller at times until we realized that tiller pressure was a warning. Evidently pressure built between our hull and the bank when we were not centered in the deepest part of the canal and this tended to force Pooh back into the deeper water. A byproduct of our modest engine speed was that we only burned about a 1/2 gallon an hour. The Well Dressed Bear Part of the reason for emerging at Calais with only a few scratches on hull was that Pooh was very well dressed for the canals. Judy had made "canal skirts"; pieces of canvas that covered the center half of the boat from rail to water. On each side, over the skirts, we had 4 large tubular fenders. Because Pooh is pointy at both ends and has a long bowsprit, we added two large teardrop fenders at rail level at the forward stanchions and aft where the outboard motor and kedge anchor are stored. Amidships we put a fenderboad on each side. Additionally we hung two small tires on each side, one pair amidships and the other pair well forward and dragging about 3" in the water. The tires were key to protecting the paint work as many locks, when full, had water within an inch or two of the top. This left the regular fenders above the wall with nothing to bear against. This mean Pooh was trundling down the waterway with 16 things hanging over the side; not a pretty sight, but very practical. We also had one other item:: A sign hung hung on the bow. It was a white board almost 2 feet on a side with a red border and a large black "1.7". This told all that our draft was 1.7 meters. It's purpose was not to tell on-coming traffic to get our of our way, but to explain why we might stopped near the channel and not moving. And several times, when meeting a large vessel we did move toward the bank, but then stopped unexpectedly. When this happened, I made no attempt to get off immediately as I might just back right into the path of the approaching boat. In each case, the on-coming boat slowed and passed us very carefully, a couple waiting to see if we needed help in getting off ground. We never did need help, although in some cases it took several minutes of backing and filling to get free. Day One of Forty-four We set the pattern the first day by stopping for lunch. Our first bank stop. It went exactly as the cruising guides said. We found a nice section of bank, solid with little growth, nosed up, stepped ashore, tied off to a tree and enjoyed a relaxed lunch. That afternoon we encountered a violent thunderstorm with hail completely covering the deck. When the rain slacked enough, we picked a beautiful section of the canal, protected on each side by tall trees, totally isolated and deserted. There we stopped and enjoyed a peaceful night. A postscript: The following morning I went for a short walk and not 50 yards away I looked through a break in the screening trees and what do I see -- acres of junked cars! So much for total isolation. Life on the Canal We quickly settled into a pattern. Usually up about 0700, Judy fixed breakfast while I checked the engine. Underway around 0900, maybe a little earlier or later, we would run until about noon when we would stop. Usually this meant nosing into the bank at about 45 degrees so the bowsprit was out over the bank. Judy would somehow get ashore with a long bow stern line, which she would secure to any handy bush or tree. One side of the canal always had a tow path which must not be blocked. If no trees or bushes were available, we drove some iron stakes into the ground. The tow paths are still used by hikers, bikers, fishermen and an occasional car, usually belonging to the VNF (who operate the canals and locks). After a leisurely lunch, we would free the lines, back off ground and head for the next lock. Then somewhere between 1600 and 1700 we would either pull onto the shady side of the bank as at lunch or stop at a village quay. A walk down the tow path and a sundowner or two took the clock to about 1900 and dinner, then to bed by around 2200. We had bought a universal TV while in Spain in hopes of watching TV news and learning a little of the local language. Somehow, it never worked out as most of the time we couldn't get much of a picture. At this pace, we would cover 15 to 20 miles in a day, sometimes more, and go through 12 to 15 locks. One day we did 18 locks. Stopping at a town quay, never a charge, or on the bank near a village, had the added bonus of a nearby: "boulangerie", (bakery). I became addicted to French croissants. And fortuitously, almost invariably, our stops were such that I could satisfy my habit. The Locks Our introduction to canal locks was immediate as 1 mile into the Canal-du-Centre we came to our first one. It was one of the biggies, over 30' of lift. Not exactly what we had visualized as a "French Canal Lock". But no problems as it had floating bollards and a patient lockmaster. After reaching the top, the "Eclusee", the lockmaster, came down and gave us literature with the rules and regulations in English and explained, with lots of sign language, some of the unwritten rules and customs. We rapidly enlarged our knowledge of canal locks. One thing we learned was that as soon as we learned the details of a particular style of lock, they changed it. In spite of that, there seemed to be three styles of locks: manual, mechanized, and automatic. Manual locks are just what they say. If locking up, the "eclusee", the lockmaster, as we approached, would crank open one entrance gate, walk the length of the lock, cross over to the other side via the exit gates, walk back to the entrance and crank open the other side. There were no control lights; we just entered when the gates were open. Once we entered, he would repeat the process to close both of the entrance gates behind us. He would then return to the exit end and crank open the sluices to allow water to enter the lock. When the water level rose high enough to equal the up stream water level, he would crank open the gate on one side, walk the length of the lock, cross over via the entrance gates, back to the exit end and crank open the other side. We could then exit. If locking down, the process was much the same, except that Judy could get off and crank the gate on one side closed, saving both time and a lot of walking for the eclusee. On a hot day especially, they appreciated the help. Sounds slow, but we found that we generally took only about 15 to 20 minutes per lock. In the past, the eclusee lived in a house adjacent to the lock and was often assisted by the wife. It was a life time job and they took great pride in the appearance of the locks and the surrounding grounds. Since travel along the waterway is in daylight hours only, it was a one shift job. Now, the houses of the eclusee are being sold to individuals and the eclusee comes by car or moped from his home and is sheltered in a small nondescript building. Even with the personal relationship gone, most of the locks and grounds are still well maintained, but not all. We also found that many of the eclusees in the summer are college students. Now, the locks generally operate from about 0900 to 1200 and 1300 to 1900, but this is kind of flexible. And we found almost all of the eclusees to be friendly and helpful, even with the language barrier. The old style manual locks are slowly disappearing and being replaced by either mechanized or automated locks. The difference between them is primarily the mechanized locks are manned and the automated locks are unmanned. In both types, the gates and the sluices are operated by electric or hydraulic motors. Automated locks always had sensors about a hundred yards before the lock to start the sequence of "preparing" the lock. This might mean raising or lowering the water level in the lock and opening the entrance gates. Lights indicated when the lock was ready for us to enter. Automated locks also had sensors right outside the gates to detect when a vessel had actually entered or cleared. Once secured inside the lock, the crew (this means Judy) would start the filling or emptying sequence by pushing a button or lifting a blue rod in the lock wall. There was always also a red button or rod for Emergency Stop. From then on, we had only to tend the lines until the exit gates were open and we could depart. Mechanized locks were similar to the automated ones, except there were no approach sensors to start the sequence but instead there was an operator to push buttons to prepare the locks, to start the sequence once we were inside and to open the exit gates. And even the mechanized locks are giving way to Automatic by the installation of the sensors. No canal locks have radios, not a big problem for us as we didn't speak enough French to talk with them. But, even without radio, we seldom had much of a wait unless the lock was occupied. Because traffic was light, for some we understood there were only ten lockings in a day, one lock master would often cover 3 or 4 locks, especially if they were close together. And even at the Automated locks there was a phone to call if a problem developed. Problems were few, which amazed me as most of the locks we were traversing had last had a major rebuilt in the 1800s. They were rough and they creaked, but they worked. We had lock problems develop only twice in the entire trip. Once in an automated lock, the sequence stopped as the entrance gates were closing. Judy called on the intercom system and a repairman arrived promptly and, he said, reset the circuit breaker. I personally think they were running under Windows 98 and he had to reboot. The other problem occurred as we were going between two locks only a hundred yards apart. The lockmaster sped by on his moped and indicated maybe a problem and we pulled onto the bank. Shortly he returned to confirm a problem and he had called the repairman. We invited him aboard and the three of us enjoyed some wine while waiting. Actually, we had planned to stop just on the other side of the lock, so we simply stayed the night where we were. Most of the canal locks are 3 to 4 meters high (9' to 12') with the least being 0.8 meters. Each boat seems to find what works best for them and we were no exception. When going up there is generally more turbulence and we usually used separate bow and stern lines plus engine power to keep from getting crosswise in the lock. Furthermore, the bollards are often out of reach overhead. In such cases, often Judy climbed a wet, slimy ladder to take the lines I handed up. The bow line was preset and I, alone aboard, handled the stern line, tiller and throttle as we rose. To avoid climbing the slimy ladders, Judy often requested I put her ashore on the bank some distance before the lock. It was particularly good exercise when we encountered a series of closely spaced locks and she walked between each. Descending locks were easier and required some different strategy. Again, we usually used both a bow and stern line, especially for tall locks. All lines were always doubled so we could release one end and have the line run free. Judy preset all the locking lines prior to entering. She manned the bow line and I the stern line while locking. When the bollards were placed so far back as to be unreachable from the boat, Judy would step ashore and place the lines. The only real hazard was that the running end of the line might jam under the standing end. Should that happen and the load become so great that the jam could not be freed, the only option was to cut the line. We both kept sharp knives at hand when locking. A serious problem only arose once, but we were in a manned lock and a yell to the lockmaster stopped the lock emptying and started level rising until we cleared the jam. We improved our procedures as we went along and by the time we got to Calais, were pretty good. As proof, I point to only three scratches on Pooh Bear's topsides; and they were little ones.. The Traffic We had expected a constant stream of traffic, both pleasure boats and commercials vessels. And we fully expected to be crowded into locks with several other boats. Not so. It was rare when we didn't lock through alone. And we would run for hours without meeting any boats. The Peniches were the work horses of the canals until recently. They came in a variety of sizes, but the "standard" was 38.5 meters long, 4.5 meters wide and drew 1.8 meters (128' x 15' x 6'). The dimensions were governed by the standard lock size set up in the early 1800s. To maximize the cargo carrying capacity they are bluff bowed with an almost square stern. Even the barn door rudder is outboard and arranged to turn 90 degrees so no space was wasted in the locks. The wheel house and living quarters for the owner and his family are in the stern, and more recently, a place on the stern has been fitted for the family car. They were built in great numbers in the late 1800s and early 1900s of riveted iron plates, powered by a single 40 to 120 hp engine. They were intended to last forever and to be passed down from father to son (or daughter in a few cases). A couple would spend their entire lives and raise a family on one boat. They also became quite skillful, and still are, in boat handling. Following WWII, trucks began to take over and the number of peniches dropped quickly. There are still a few commercial peniches in service working the canals, but very few. However, on the Seine, we did encounter many peniches still operating, often two of them hooked in tandem. Many retired peniches are being converted to pleasure boats with sumptuous living quarters. Many of the conversions cut out the center portion to reduce the length to around 70'. So while we saw few true commercial peniches in the canals, we did see many conversions, which I call barge boats. The First Two and Half Days In glancing through the log, we did 12 locks the first day, 18 locks the second day, and by midmorning of the third day we had done 6 more. In all 36 locks we went up for a total of 437.8 feet since leaving Chalon. The next 9 locks were going down for a total of 15 before 1500. We were on a roll. But at noon a tiny fuel drip had become a steady stream. The engine compartment (we can't dignify that amount of space as a room) was covered with diesel fuel. Realizing we had a real problem, in the middle of the afternoon of the 3rd day, we pulled into the marina at Montceau-les-Mines. Two and half days into the canals and we already had a problem! Continued in The French Canals - Part 2. Bob & Judy (aboard s/v Pooh Bear in St. Katharine's marina, London, England) W5TFY@amsat.org