POOH BEAR REPORT 2003-10, Through the Low Country

Starting:  Delfzijl, The Netherlands, 25 September 2003
Ending:     Amsterdam, The Netherlands, 10 October 2003

Delfzijl was the door to Holland and our route south.  Throughout Holland is
an intricate network of canals, most not accessible with Pooh Bear due draft
or mast height limitations.  However, from Delfzijl in the north of Holland
to Vlissingen (Flushing) in the south, there is almost 200 miles of a water
route with a least depth of six feet and, for practical considerations,
unlimited overhead clearance - the "Standingmast Route".   Save that portion
across the Ijsselemeer, almost the entire length is protected and passable
in any weather.  It was via this route we planned to take Pooh at least to
the south of Holland, maybe clear into Belgium, before darting across the
North Sea back to London (as if a fat bear could dart).

We were in Delfzijl only long enough to ensure the required books and charts
were aboard.  And when I say required, I am referring primarily to a thick
book entitled, "Almanak voor wateroerisme, deel 1".  By law, this book,
containing all of the Dutch Waterway Regulations, must be aboard.  Of
course, it is printed entirely in Dutch and we can't read a word of it.
But, it was aboard as we entered the sea locks and the Dutch waterway
system.

Our first night in the canals was at Oosterhaven, an unusual little marina
in Groningen.  I was concerned about the series of opening bridges, the
first opening of the first bridge being at 0900.  I was also concerned that
we would miss a turn at one of the multitude of side channels - our canal
chart resembled a street map.  I need not have worried.  As we cleared the
first lifting bridge, I slowed and moved to one side to let a 100-foot Dutch
sailing barge overtake us.  Judy and I figured he was big and knew where he
was going - and with those towering mast, would surely be going our way.  We
were right.

The first night out of Groningen, we missed a 1630 bridge opening by three
minutes, so returned north a mile and tied off for the night at one of the
many moorings provided along the canals. While usually remote from any
village, each bank mooring was totally free, was bulkheaded, had substantial
bollards on which to moor, and was clean and surrounded by a neatly mowed
grassy area.  Near Dokkum, and again near Grou, we spent nights on bank
moorings.

The weather was a mixed bag with rain on several days.  During the night
near, Dokkum, we experienced torrential rains and high winds.  Some gusts
were so strong our cabin heater blew out repeatedly, then, still being hot,
relit with a bang.  Wanting to keep heat, but fearing the relight bangs
might blow the window out of the heater, I ventured on deck and fitted an
extra one foot smoke stack extension.  It helped enough we could keep the
heater running, which was good as I came below soaked and very cold.
Cruising is such fun.

Between villages the canal wound through mostly pastoral lands.  Depths were
never a problem except in the open waters of the Lauwesmeer, formerly open
to the sea, but now protected by dikes.  Midway between a pair of red and
green buoys, the depth sounder numbers decreased slowly until they equaled
Pooh's draft and, not surprisingly, we slowly and gently came to a halt.  In
spite of the gentlest of groundings, we spent most of the next hour working
off ground, then finding the deeper water clear outside of the marked
channel.  Earlier, as we entered the Lauwesmeer, we saw and spoke Islay,
Dave and Ruth, who we met back in Norderney.  We were to see them again.
Traffic, both commercial and yachting, increased as we approached Lemmer, a
major yachting center on the Ijsselemeer.

We encountered many opening bridges, most of them bascule type.  For
instance, one day, in addition to three locks, we passed through 22 bridges.
Another day, 20 bridges.  Some were manned and would open as we approached.
Others had no local operator, but approaching vessels were monitored by
video cameras and operated from a remote location.  A horn blast often was
needed to alert the operator to look at his screens.   There is no fee for
the use of the canals, but there is a charge for bridges in some cities.
Where payment was due, a sign on the bridge displayed the amount, usually
between $2.50 and $8.00.  As we passed through the bridge, the operator hung
a wooden shoe on a line from a fishing rod extended over the water.  We
needed to slow only enough for Judy to put the required coins into the shoe.
We were careful to always have plenty of coins, as they did not make change.

While no bridges monitored VHF radio, we had few problems and passed through
most with only little delay.  The outstanding exceptions were bridges in the
city of Leeuwarden.   It was Sunday morning and there was almost no
automobile traffic.  Every bridge made us wait.  One, in a particularly
difficult bend, made us wait for 15 minutes, and for no apparent reason.
The operator in the tower was clearly visible, apparently asleep or watching
TV, totally ignoring repeated whistle signals.  Had I been able to get
ashore, I think I would have walked up and kicked in door.  Fortunately,
there was no place to go ashore.  But the incident that truly sent me into a
rage occurred at the last of the 5 bridges, the only remotely controlled one
in the group.  As we approached, the bridge was opening and we slowed to
allow a northbound sailboat through.  Then, as we started through, the
bridge lowered almost on us.  For 15 minutes we circled and blew and fumed.
Judy eventually contacted someone on the VHF radio who stated there would be
an additional 15 minutes wait.  Tired of circling, we were mooring at a
nearby dock when the bridge commenced opening.  I must admit, I lost my
cool.

For the last few miles before Lemmer, a major city on the northeast side of
the Ijsselemeer, we encountered many yachts and commercial craft with
numerous large marinas on each side.  Having not refueled since the entrance
to the Kiel Canal, we sough out the local Texaco pumps and filled our
tanks - 38 gallons at $3.00 per gallon.  Lemmer looked to be an interesting
city, one where we would like to have spent some time exploring.  But the
weather was right so we locked through into the Ijsselemeer and motored the
16 miles across smooth waters to the marina in Einkhuizen.  Enroute, sailing
vessels of all sizes, including tall ships, were visible all about the
compass - at one point Judy counted 17.

We stayed two nights in Einkhuizen, and could have stayed a couple more.  We
walked about the town, and stumbled on a great find (one that will mean a
lot to fellow cruisers).  A local hardware store would fill, not only our
aluminum American propane bottles, but also our British Calor bottle.  When
we left Einkhuizen, it was with three full propane tanks.  The marina was
nice, but quite expensive, with a couple of irritants.  One was that for
electrical service, we had to feed a meter, not uncommon, but it asked for a
one Euro coin at very frequent intervals - running out at 0500 the first
morning, making for a chilly cabin, and at 0800 the second, encouraging us
to dress and get underway.  The other irritant was that in order to
replenish our drinking water supply, we would have to feed another meter a
goodly number of Euros.  This was a first in Europe for us.  We just said
NO!

From Einkhuizen we passed through the dike separating the Ijsselemeer and
the Maarkermeer via new channel with very modern locks.  Most startling was
the roadway on the dike crossing the channel via a tunnel under the locks.
We enjoyed a fine day's sail until, as we approached the locks to the east
of Amsterdam, we encountered a steady stream of coastal and river barges, in
and outbound, from Amsterdam.  Small craft and yachts were handled without
delay through a small set of locks and we were soon secured in Sixhaven
Marina, almost downtown Amsterdam.

Sixhaven Marina is an old marina situated only a 5 minute free ferry ride
from the center of Amsterdam.  Unfortunately, a new underground Metro line
is being built under the river and passing down the west side of the marina.
What effect it will have, who knows.  Within minutes of having Pooh secured,
a familiar voice hailed us.  It was Brian and Nell from Storm Along.  We had
first met in the Caledonian Canal a year earlier and had wintered in St.
Katharine's with us.  They were returning from a summer in the Baltic,
including a visit to St. Petersburg.  After an evening of sea stories we
parted once again as they departed for Harwich and on west for a late season
passage down the English Channel and across the Bay of Biscay enroute to a
westbound Atlantic crossing.

Of our nine days in Sixhaven, five were per plan for sightseeing, four
unplanned awaiting weather, but all were spent touring, especially Judy.
The Dutch are a very tolerant society.  The Red Light District, with open
prostitution and drugs, is clearly defined on your guidebook map and only
two blocks from Damrak, the main street of the city.  Museums of all kinds
abound, ranging from the Ship Museum to the Sex Museum and the Erotica
Museum.  Throughout the city, postcards are openly displayed that, while
some are quite amusing, would be definitely considered pornographic.  And I
had to remember that I should not go to a "Coffee Shop" for my afternoon
coffee.  But that is where I would go for drugs in all forms including some
mixed with my cookies, dissolved in my drink, snorted, injected, etc.  It
was a little startling to walk through the Red Light District.  Behind the
glass door or window of each building displaying a red light, was a woman,
in some cases a young looking girl, usually wearing black lingerie.  On the
sidewalk outside of many pubs and bars, the scent of marijuana was
overpowering.  I might note that for two or three days, a powerboat with
several young persons was docked adjacent to us.  Marijuana fumes rolled
over Pooh when their cabin door opened.

I am dwelling far too much on negative aspects of Amsterdam.  We covered
Amsterdam afoot and afloat.  Architecturally, it a fascinating city; a blend
of old "story book" and modern buildings.  It is a city where there are far
more bicycles than automobiles.  It is the only place I have seen a three
story-parking garage only for bicycles.  Unfortunately, that bicycle theft
is rampant was brought home when Judy witnessed a bicycle being stolen from
friend on a British boat.

There are so many museums; even Judy didn't to see them all.  Among those
we, or at least Judy, did see were the Historical Museum, the Rijkmuseum
(art), the Royal Palace, the Anne Franks House, very moving and usually with
long lines at the entrance, the Van Gogh Museum, and, with the Dutch
maritime history going back to the 1500s, the Maritime Museum.  The latter
had the replica of the Amsterdam open for touring.  The original Amsterdam
sank near Dover in 1749 on its maiden voyage when it lost its rudder in a
storm.

Just wandering about looking at the buildings was fascinating.  Many are
huge; such as the train station built in the early 1800s and still the
transportation hub of the city.  And the Burs van Berlage, the former stock
exchange built around 1900, looking as if it were lifted from Disneyland.
Everywhere are 19th century buildings, still very much in use, such as the
former post office now a shopping center.

On the other end of the size scale are buildings four and five story high,
but only three windows wide, some less.  Many of them are very old and still
in use, in spite of leaning sideways, leaning outward, or bulging in some
peculiar manner.

We ate well in Amsterdam, including twice enjoying an English Breakfast.  We
also enjoyed my birthday dinner, somewhat delayed.  It has been the custom,
in at least three generations of my family, that the birthday celebrant may
pick their menu.  Mine is always fried chicken.  Judy treated me to KFC!

Being a small country long involved in world commerce and finance, almost
all Dutch speak English.  Many are fluent in several languages.  Our guide
aboard the canal boat tour gave her spiel, at every point of interest, in
four languages; Dutch, German, French and English.

Since arriving in Amsterdam the weather had often been quite rainy and
stormy.  One afternoon we collected half an inch of hail on deck. And in the
North Sea, only 20 miles to the west, the winds surpassed the gale
designation to reach storm force - over 50 knots with seas of 20 feet.  But
finally the five day forecast predicted a change.  And that will be the
subject of the next, and final, Pooh Bear Report for 2003.

End of PB Rpt 2003-10, Through the Low Country.doc

Bob & Judy Bailey  (aboard s/y Pooh Bear in St. Katharine Haven, London,
England)